Needles bend and break they need to be replaced after 6-8 hours of sewing.
New longarm owners quickly discover that longarm needles are very different from the ones they’ve used for piecing quilts.
Industrial needles come in many configurations to fit different machines.
“MR” needles, which means “multi-directional.” These needles resist bending and have a very deep, extended scarf (the notched area behind the needle), which allows tighter hook placement for superior stitches.
In addition, the needle eye and long groove above it are specially designed to reduce thread twist and keep the thread loop formed when changing directions.
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FOR THE LONGARM Schmetz needle, to be specific, a light ball point. System 134
1. Ball-point tip spreads fibers instead of cutting them,
preventing holes in fibers. (forget what you think about
ball point needles only being for jersey knits. These are
not for sewing, they are for quilting purposes)
2. Reduces thread breaks when machine goes from right
to left.
3. Round shank needles, for muliti-directional use
4. For use with most machines HandiQuilter, Gammill,
Prodigy, Nolting, Tin Lizzie and Innova.
***** (these are a round shank top, with a thread groove
in the front and scarf in the back)
I don’t believe these
will work on an APQS, A1 or a Bernina
longarm.
They will work on an HQ Infinity at lower speed.
5. Prevents skipped stitches
Can you use industrial needles in a home sewing machine?
In a word, NO!
The needles are made differently, with the prime difference being the shape of the shank.
On a domestic sewing machine needle, the shank is flat at the back.
On an industrial machine needle, the shank is fully rounded.
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